Monday, May 26, 2008
American Food!
As one of the most important aspects of cross cultural exchanges, and to give my mom a break from cooking for election day last week I treated my family to the quintessential American meal - burgers, fries and salad. It was quite an eye opener for them, because if you don't know how to cook rice and beans than you must be completely useless in the kitchen. But after they all ate their second and third servings I think they had a new appreciation for me, and we were down an entire bottle of ketchcup!
Even Flaco (skinny, as we affectionately call him), who typically doesn't even eat his own share of food, had several burgers.
I was surprised and glad to see that most of what I needed was available at the local store - the one and only open on election day here - though I did enjoy making breadcrumbs from scratch as I can't seem to find them even in the big supermarkets.
I'm finally home!
For the next two years I will be living in a small mountain community outside San Jose de las Matas on the North face of the Cordillera Central, the mountain range containing the highest point in the Caribbean, Pico Duarte. It is unbelievably beautiful here, but if you know anything about geography and weather you might understand better than I that the winds bring moist ocean air onto this island from the north, and as it travels up the side of the North face of the mountains it dumps all that moisture onto the people living there…well I just became one of those people. I don’t know this place well enough to say, but I’m sure there are times of the year when this place doesn’t get much rain – a “dry” season if you will, but this is NOT that time. When I arrived at my site for the first time it was raining and 24 hours later…still raining. You must understand that in this country it’s a bit different when it rains, its sort of like an extremely severe blizzard in that everyone runs for their houses and no one leaves…not for work, not for meetings, nothing. Especially in the campo, nothing is urgent enough to go out into the rain for. So needless to say my new project partner did not come to pick me up and show me around.
If there ever was a plus side to being stuck inside a house in which 10 of us live, it’s that my new younger siblings are absolutely amazing at entertaining themselves. I assume it comes from living for years in a country where sometimes there’s electricity for the tv and sometimes there isn’t, but there isn’t too much to watch anyway besides a little Spanish dubbed Pokemon. Anyway, they are teaching me the local trees and plants and Spanish of course. We practiced our world geography with the map, played Frisbee, and ate pineapple and honey (which is delicious by the way, but the sweetness situation in this country is severely out of control). I also spent a few hours playing dominoes with my new, half crazy abuelos – grandparents. It’s an interesting situation because I cannot understand either one of them and we don’t keep score, so the game never really ends. Eventually it gets too dark for them to see the dominoes and they start taking two to five minutes a turn…if I’m lucky there’s no electricity and we’re forced to call it quits…if not, I spend the rest of the evening nodding at the same questions over and over – which I don’t understand – and exchanging silly faces with the old man across the table, who I am convinced would be hilarious if he could still speak audible words…in any language. It makes for quite a bit of humor if you can appreciate the situation unfortunately I’m using the only person at the table who remembers what we’re laughing at. Now let me tell you that kids can either make or break a host family…my first two included little sisters who were very sweet but did more to drive me nuts than improve my Spanish. Now, I have three very intelligent and thoughtful younger brothers, ages 11, 12 and 20, and my Spanish is sky-rocketing. Not that I’m fluent or anything, still struggling quite bit, but at least I am learning something everyday. They are so helpful that sometimes they just sit (probably bored out of their minds) and listen to me read random things aloud to correct my pronunciation…over and over again. Needless to say, they are extremely patient and I never feel like an obligation. We’ve been having many, surprisingly meaningful interactions since I imagine that this is the first time they’ve ever tried to communicate with someone who doesn’t speak their language. My dad is quite jovial and interacts with me a lot and my mom is classy, professional, soft spoken and beautiful.
Aside from my amazing family the best thing about my life right now is warm water. That’s right, after 63 days without even so much as a luke warm faucet, I have been blessed with the gift of warmed H2O. I don’t know where in the process of traveling, from the tank in the backyard to the PCV pipe sticking out of the wall in my bathroom it is warmed, but I would not even blink an eye if they told me it was un milagro – a miracle. In fact, I believe that it is, and I will never again take it for granted. I challenge you all to take just one or two straight up cold showers – and don’t give me that “you live in a subtropical climate” stuff either because it does get cold here, and indoor heating and cooling do not exist in the campo! Good luck!
Carnaval!
The Eastern two thirds of the island of Hispańola - now known as the Domincan Republic - have been under the control of several foreign powers since Columbus led the Spanish here in 1492 and a large part of the native Taino population was killed by way of murder, disease and/or suicide, depending on who you talk to. Interestingly though, recent genetic studies of the Dominican people show that they are descended from all three of the ethnic populations that have occupied this country throughout history, and in nearly equal parts - the native Taino, the Spanish and the African. In 1822, having been a neglected Spanish colony for hundreds of years, the island was taken over by neighboring Haiti, the first Independent Black Republic in the Western Hemisphere.
In celebration of the independence that the Dominican Republic then gained from Haiti on the 27th day of February, 1844, Dominicans have Carnaval! The weekend after we arrived in this country a few of us ventured downtown to a highly populated strip of the Mediterranean coast to brave the crowds for a glimpse of the gorgeous costumes, giant whip cracking and kite flying. As usual it was a hot sunny day and there was meringue music playing everywhere.
Disclaimer: I very much value accurate and complete conveyances of history, and the above does not meet the latter expectation. This country has a phenomenal history and if you’re interested you should read up on the topic, including but not limited to Why the Cocks Fight: Haiti, the Dominican Republic and the struggle for Hispańola.
Friday, May 9, 2008
Graduation
Behind them is a map of the DR with volunteers pictures posted at their sites. There are approximately 150 of us in the country at any one time. This is a very special day in the life of Peace Corps trainees as we add our pictures to the map, take the oath of service that all who serve the United States government do, they change our titles from PCT (trainee) to PCV (volunteer), and we also begin accruing vacation days and in this country, get cell phones!
One of the most important things we've learned in training over the last two months is that here in the Dominican Republic non-verbal communication is everywhere. It so common that no matter where in the country you go they know the gestures, it seems that they have a sign language system of their own. There are signs for do you want to dance?, what is that?, you are cheap, various public transportation routes, and even a new (slightly Americanized) combination of gestures to indicate "I dont know what that is but I doing want any you cheap bitch." To show how well we've assimilated to the culture my good friends Destin, Pedro and I (shown here in our graduation best) demonstrate the non-verbal lip point to indicate direction. If you look close you can see that I'm sporting my new, offical DR/USA/Peace Corps pin!
Yesterday to celebrate our big accomplishment the Ambassador threw us an embassy pool party - American style - complete with hot dogs and potato salad, and I had a taste of my first mango grown on U.S. soil.
Today we will all head off in different directions spread across the country to begin the real work on Monday. We all feel prepared and super excited to get started on our work, but also a little sad that this part of our journey together is ending.